Achi news desk-
In the exhibition, rare kimono from the 17th and 18th centuries are displayed alongside modern designs by Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Alexander McQueen.
The recent reinvention of the kimono on the streets of Japan is also explored through work by a new wave of contemporary designers and stylists.
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Arguably the ultimate symbol of Japan, the kimono is revered within the country as an embodiment of national culture and viewed internationally with interest. This symbolic status, and the fact that its basic form has remained constant over the centuries, means that the kimono is often seen as a simple, timeless garment. Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk counters that conception, revealing how the kimono has always been a dynamic item of fashionable dress that has been constantly reshaped throughout its history, influencing modern fashion and popular culture, from wearing evening and festival fashion, to rock stars and Star Wars.
Exhibition highlights include a kimono created by Living National Treasure Kunihiko Moriguchi, contemporary designs from L’Wren Scott’s 2014 collection, and a kimono owned by Queen lead singer Freddie Mercury worn at home.
Designs by Yves Saint Laurent, Rei Kawakubo and John Galliano reveal the kimono’s role as a constant source of inspiration for fashion designers. Paintings, prints, film, costume accessories and other objects are on view throughout the exhibition, giving additional context to the fascinating story of the kimono’s style, appeal and influence.
In all, almost 300 works are featured, including a kimono made especially for the show, three-quarters of which come from the V&A’s collections and the rest generously lent by museums and private collections in Britain, Europe, America and Japan.
This is the last chance to see these rare works together on the last stop of the Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk international tour running at V&A Dundee from May 4 to January 5, 2025.
The exhibition is divided into three parts, starting in the mid-17th century when a vibrant fashion culture emerged in Japan. The increasingly wealthy merchant classes demanded the latest styles to express their wealth, confidence and taste, while leading actors and famous courtesans were the trend setters of the day. The simple structure of the kimono focused attention on the face, allowing for the creation of luxurious patterns using sophisticated techniques.
Anna Jackson, curator Kimono: Kyoto to CatwalkHe said, “Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the aesthetic, social and sartorial importance of the kimono. This iconic garment is generally seen as a timeless and traditional garment.
“We counter that concept by showing that kimono has always been a very dynamic piece of clothing, at the heart of a fashion culture that has flourished in Japan since the 1660s. The exhibition reveals how kimono fashion has been translated into across cultural and geographical boundaries and has had a major impact on global dress styles for nearly 400 years.”
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V&A Dundee curator Kirsty Hassard said: “Many of the clothes we wear today are indirectly inspired by the kimono in the way it changed the silhouettes that designers were crafting, especially in the 20th century.
“We hope that visitors will enjoy gaining an insight into the importance of the kimono on global fashion, and the unique experience of seeing the Kimono exhibition within V&A Dundee’s Japanese-Scottish-inspired architecture on the final stop of its international tour.”
Leonie Bell, Director of V&A Dundee, said: “V&A Dundee on the banks of the Tay is a Scottish-Japanese building and sets the stage perfectly for Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk. Architect Kengo Kuma drew inspiration for the V&A Dundee building from the rocky cliffs of the east coast of Scotland, Dundee’s maritime heritage, and places of worship in ancient Japan.
“An opening Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk at V&A Dundee celebrates the kimono’s enduring place in the history of fashion design and contemporary culture, whilst also offering us the opportunity to recognize and celebrate Scottish-Japanese cultural bonds, which span hundreds of years and influence art, design, fashion and architecture to engineering, food, gardens, film, animation, music and more.”
Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk open from Saturday 4 May 2024 until 5 January 2025 at V&A Dundee.
