Achi news desk-
Many of us seem to forget that our scalp is an extension of our skin – until we are faced with signs of distress in the form of itchiness, flakiness or even worse… hair loss.
“The scalp is the base of your hair follicles and your hair’s support system,” says a London-based trichologist Annabelle Kingsley. “Poor scalp health, such as flaking and inflammation, can increase hair loss and also weaken hairs as they grow from their follicle.”
Scalp health can affect the overall health and appearance of your hair, and keeping it in good condition means less chance of hair loss, thinning or unmanageable scalp conditions.
To learn all about how to properly care for this often overlooked area, we interviewed a number of trichologists about the habits and behaviors they completely avoid.
1. They don’t use hair products without reading the label first.
Like the skin on your face or body, the condition of your scalp should be considered when using any hair care or styling products. “As a trichologist, I would avoid using harsh hair products that could aggravate the condition of the scalp,” she said Anna Astarte, a trichologist from Los Angeles. Common scalp conditions include dandruff, psoriasis, folliculitis and seborrheic dermatitis.
Astarte recommended avoiding products with sulphates, as they can strip the scalp of its natural moisture, as well as synthetic fragrances, which can lead to further irritation if you already struggle with the scalp condition. Instead, opt for soothing ingredients such as aloe vera, anti-inflammatory tea tree oil and chamomile, which can help soothe scalp irritation.
2. They don’t underestimate the power of scalp massage.
Scalp massages may not exist in your routine, but Astarte said they can do wonders for your overall scalp health. “Massaging the scalp helps stimulate blood flow and nourish the hair follicles,” he says.
To do a scalp massage at home, use circular motions to massage the scalp for five to 10 minutes, two or three times a week. You can also use a scalp brush with soft, round bristles if you don’t want to use your hands.
3. They don’t wear tight hairstyles
“I would never wear tight hairstyles like ponytails, braids or buns more than twice a week,” she said. Kayla Jones, a certified trichologist from Dallas. “These hairstyles contribute to hair breakage and traction alopecia along the hairline due to pulling,” she says. They can also create soreness and tenderness on the scalp due to the constant tension.
Limit how often you wear this hairstyle and be aware of your hair ties; Jones recommends avoiding traditional elastic hair ties and rubber bands and opting for satin scrunchies or “no tension” hair ties instead.
Delmaine Donson via Getty Images
4. They don’t apply conditioner to their scalp.
Conditioners are often made with heavy oils, silicones and thickening agents. When applied to your scalp, which already produces oil naturally, the combination can lead to build-up, greasiness, itching and flaking. “Conditioner belongs in the hair strands, as it’s intended for moisturizing,” says Jones – it doesn’t belong in the scalp.
5. They don’t wait to seek help when it comes to thinning hair.
Notice the hair thinning? Make an appointment to visit a trichologist. “I’ve had clients who have experienced hair loss for 30 years and we’ve achieved hair growth in four months,” says Jones. “I wouldn’t advise anyone to suffer in silence or to suffer longer than they have to.”
Thinning hair can start as early as the age of 20, and the common signs are bald patches, excess loss and changes in the texture and quality of the hair. “A trichologist, similar to a dermatologist, can help create a treatment plan that includes therapies aimed at hair growth,” says Jones.
6. They don’t use products intended for styling their scalp.
According to Tiffany Young, a certified trichologist from Thick Thin Hairhair topper brand, hair styling products should be used for just that: hair styling.
“I’ve seen overzealous and well-meaning people assume that if a product could possibly help their hair, it must also be great for the scalp, and this is simply untrue,” she says. “Hairstyling products often contain alcohol, which tends to irritate and dry out scalp tissue, as well as silicones, which while they may help the hair appear soft and shiny, can act as a moisture barrier on the scalp.”
7. They don’t forget to use sun protection.
If you thought the skin on your face and body were the only places that needed protection from the sun, think again. “It’s often misunderstood that we can’t get skin cancer on the scalp, but the scalp is made of the same skin as our faces,” she said. Gretchen Oligee, a trichologist and hairstylist from Colorado. “I have discovered on the scalp what turned out to be skin cancer on a number of my clients.” Whether it’s actual sunscreen or a hat, UV protection is important for scalp health.
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8. They don’t skip clarifying shampoos.
Especially if you’re one to stretch the time between washes, a clarifying shampoo can help improve scalp health. “Clarifying shampoos not only help remove build-up from the hair, but they help remove oils, product residue and debris from the scalp, which can block hair follicles and potentially lead to loss hair,” said Oligee. “I recommend [double-shampooing] with a clarifyer and then either a hair mask or a good moisturizing conditioner.”
9. They don’t go longer than three days between hair washes.
Chelsea Salinger, a trichologist from the Australian Trichology Center of Australia, would never go longer than three days between hair washes, as extending the period between shampooing increases your risk of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. “This is because the specific yeast associated with these conditions is sebum dependent, and not washing your hair gives this ‘bad’ yeast more opportunity to overgrow,” she says.
This is especially true for men, as they are more prone to dandruff and scalp conditions like dandruff, says Kingsely.
10. They do not skip fiber in their diet.
“Fiber is key to maintaining a healthy gut microbiome, which is directly related to the scalp microbiome,” says Salinger. “When there is dysbiosis and an imbalanced scalp microbiome, that’s when yeast and bacterial infection are most likely to occur on the scalp.”
Make sure your diet is full of fiber-rich fruit and vegetables such as pears, apples, blackberries, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and leafy greens.
11. They do not ignore the pH balance of the scalp.
Potential Hydrogen (pH) plays a vital role in maintaining scalp health. “When the pH balance is off, meaning that surface products are too alkaline or too acidic, we can experience a wide variety of scalp issues such as inflammation, dryness and irritation,” says a Washington trichologist Jess Poynter. “Knowing and using the products that optimize pH ensures that the scalp remains in peak operating condition.”
Poynter notes that the optimal pH for hair, skin and nails is between 4.5 and 5.5. Although there is no way to test the pH of your scalp, pH strips are available over the counter and allow you to test your products at home.
12. They don’t overuse dry shampoo.
Dry shampoo can be a savior for extending the days between washes, but overusing it can have adverse effects on your scalp. “The buildup of dry shampoo residue can block hair follicles, leading to irritation, itching and even hair loss over time,” says Poynter, who recommends using dry shampoo no more than three to four days in a row.
To use dry shampoo properly, Poynter says to apply two or three spritzes to the hairline, crown and nape of the neck to address where you’d commonly notice the excess oil. Make sure you don’t touch your hair with your hands after spraying (to avoid any natural oils on your hands transferring to your hair) – instead, use a wide tooth comb or detangling brush to spread the product.
