Except translation, this story has not been edited by achinews staff and is published from a syndicated feed.
PARIS (AP) – Loewe’s latest VIP collection dazzled on the Paris Fashion Week runway on Friday, presenting an explosion of florals and form that captured the innovative spirit of designer Jonathan Anderson.
The Northern Irish designer once again demonstrated his knack for infusing theatricality into his designs, showcasing whimsical creations such as a surreal giant hoop skirt that gave the exhibition an eccentric, circus-like feel. A stunning white dress embellished with vibrant floral prints radiated energy.
Here are some highlights from spring-summer ready-to-wear shows:
Turning Loewe
Lines and unexpected twists on classic silhouettes dominated the runway, with the huge ring transforming floral patterns into eccentric spectacles. Skillfully, Anderson wove historical Renaissance inspiration with the carefree looseness of the 1920s, mixed with surreal structured skirts and peplums that evoked a rich sense of heritage. All designs had something timeless about them.
A striking piece, a beautiful feathered poncho featuring a Van Gogh print, amazed with his artistic talent. It illustrated Anderson’s ability to transform art into fashion and resonated deeply with camera-ready audiences. Each piece seemed to challenge the viewer’s expectations, daring them to reconsider the boundaries of traditional fashion.
Exploring bold concepts and mind-bending forms, the exhibition sometimes veered into the over-conceptual. But Anderson still presented a wealth of wearable pieces. The collection featured eye-catching items such as a black trench coat with a mid-fashion cut, which exuded rock star magnetism and exemplified the brand’s leather heritage.
The piece, along with others, showcased Anderson’s mastery of balancing creativity with functionality.
Schiaparelli shines with bold whimsy
Daniel Roseberry’s latest collection for Schiaparelli focuses on combining high fashion with refreshing accessibility. Although it contained less of the Surrealism associated with the late, great house founder Elsa Schiaparelli, the collection still celebrated whimsy, albeit a dialed down version.
Gone are the days of celebrity driven runways. Instead, Roseberry created an eclectic mix of bold silhouettes and playful designs. Standout pieces included denim with a unique U-shaped dip in the middle, paired with curve-hugging ivory bodysuits that highlighted an hourglass shape. This motif, evident in a zip front dress and sleek halter top, appeared throughout the collection, showcasing Roseberry’s knack for redefining femininity.
With less embroidery this season, the designer emphasized texture and detail. Models covered in gathered mesh jersey dresses, with fabric coiled like a braid, and dresses layered with suede for added shine.
Footwear also drew attention, including Roseberry’s signature trompe l’oeil sneakers alongside leather babouche slides adorned with golden toe rings – transforming everyday items into artistic statements.
Roseberry was inspired by the women in his life who crave statement pieces that are effortlessly chic, with bold patterns, exaggerated shoulder pads, and bold floral motifs.
In a fashion landscape often driven by commercial pressure, Schiaparelli’s latest show created a dynamic space for creativity. Roseberry proved he could balance artistic whimsy with wearable elegance.
The papery beauty of Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake’s latest collection developed as a poetic exploration into the art of simplicity and craft. Much like the house’s previous offerings, this collection combined innovative techniques with tradition – a trait that has continued under the vision of Satoshi Kondo and the design atelier.
This time, the team explored paper as a medium and inspiration, investigating its textures, lightness, and nostalgic tone. If previous shows overwhelmed geometry and fluidity, Friday’s collection was all about the fragility and strength of paper through airy, pleated garments and origami-inspired folds.
The collection began with kamiko pieces – garments made from traditional washi paper – that paid tribute to Japan’s centuries-old crafts. This nod to the past didn’t come at the expense of wearability.
The Fold-to-Form pieces were nothing short of architectural brilliance, with angled, origami-inspired folds. It felt like a natural extension of Miyake’s legacy: one part innovation, one part reflection of the past.
The house’s fixation on textiles sometimes turned too conceptual. The EAU series, with its transparency and water-like fluidity, had all the ethereal beauty one might expect, but the weight of its metaphor – clothes flowing like water – felt familiar.
Marketing madness
As Paris Fashion Week progresses, so do the latest gimmicks. The newest trend and topic of conversation in the front row was the introduction of Uber Fashion cars, designed in collaboration with the fashion house Coperni. The vehicles feature a metallic sheen inspired by the brand’s Swipe Bag.
Fashion-conscious riders could book a free ride in these cars by selecting the Uber Fashion option in the app, and each ride even comes with a customized playlist to enhance the Fashion Week experience, in according to Uber. However, availability is on a first-come, first-served basis, meaning that many may not be able to secure a ride amid the chaos of the event. It’s yet another example of how the fashion industry is trying to capitalize on the excitement of Fashion Week.
Victoria Beckham blows in a new breeze
Victoria Beckham’s latest collection swept through Paris with the power of Greek myth, evoking the Victory of Samothrace as a twisted crop vest opened the show. It was coiled like a glittering piece of fabric, as if ready to fly off the runway – setting the tone for a collection that danced between poetry and practicality.
The breezy aesthetic was unmistakable throughout, from a sheer pastel top that revealed nipples in a diagonal cascade down the torso, to loose signature trousers with a wavy slit. Beckham’s circular play with symmetry was here, albeit with a softer, more sculptural touch, subtly nodding to his signature focus on elongating the body. This time, her references to Ancient Greece gave her collection a new kind of dynamism that felt almost ethereal. Gigi Hadid, dressed in a bright green dress with a gathered skirt, moved like a sculpture come to life – a striking moment that embodied the unexpected, but very welcome, more poetic direction to the former Spice Girl.
But amidst the wavy silhouettes and minimalism, Beckham deftly anchored designs with the staples that have made his brand so popular. Flowers made an appearance — subtle, but essential — as did her commitment to relaxed, modern tailoring. While the poetic gestures floated through, the bread and butter of the house remained: practical, wearable luxury.
Yet the collection straddled the fine line between creativity and wearability – a line Beckham has steered with mixed success in the past. While the dry, breezy clothes evoke a sense of playful experimentation, critics of her previous work may wonder if her glamor risks overpowering the practical core of the brand. Beckham’s past seasons have seen her balance the theatrical with the everyday, but these pastels and sculptural gowns flirted with pushing that envelope a little too far.
Still, Beckham has proven her mastery of deconstruction and silhouette, and here it paid off. The architectural approach she has honed, from cropped jackets to open backs, has found new life in this Greek motif. Her ability to reveal and hide in the same breath, to deconstruct and rebuild, once again highlights her strength in mastering the structure of complex clothes – a talent that has been honed across her shows in Paris.
(Except translation, this story has not been edited by achinews staff and is published from a syndicated feed.)
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